JIWAN, the immersive gastronomic concept at the top of the National Museum of Qatar, invites patrons for fine dining accented by postcardperfect views. Win-win.
I ’ve visited the National Museum of Qatar a few times now since it opened in March 2019. It is a mesmerising piece of architectural splendour designed by Jean Nouvel and its design is as captivating and fascinating inside as it looks from the outside. In my recent visits, I had yet to make it to Jiwan, the fourthfloor restaurant at the top of the museum until now.
Once again, the National Museum of Qatar has found a way to leave me speechless. Curving around much of the floor, you realise that the view manages to take in the modern Msheireb on the left, the sea straight ahead and the iconic Doha skyline across the water in West Bay on the horizon.
As a piece of prime real estate, it is jaw droppingly beautiful. Noteworthy are aesthetic details such as the desert-coloured pillars and carpet that changes shade as you walk across it, evoking the feeling of moving across dunes of sand. In keeping with the national theme of the museum, the restaurant proudly offers what it calls contemporary Qatari cuisine. Locally produced fresh breads arrive on the table to start as well as some delicious cheese sambousek.
The French chef invited me into his enormous kitchen which is considerably bigger than most. He told me that he has worked in many places, but he had to relearn cooking as he spent six to nine months understanding the culinary heritage of Qatar and the palate of local ingredients that make up true Qatari cuisine. What he has managed to combine is both traditional authentic local dishes with a modern and contemporary twist that give all menu items here a signature taste.
This was perhaps exemplified by the lamb appetiser served with chickpeas and lentils or the imaginative cauliflower recipe that includes grape and turmeric.
“What he has managed to combine is both traditional authentic local dishes with a modern and contemporary twist that give all menu items here a signature taste.”
Lamb lovers should enjoy a classic madroba rich in texture and flavour. All plates have been handmade and the intricacy of the artwork on them creating stormy waves at sea is aptly in keeping with the overall design theme. Even the glasses have been custom made by glass blowers and there is even a small pearl inside to reference Qatar’s former era of pearling. The pièce de résistance were the local shrimps served in an archway of hanging skewers with fennel sitting underneath. It was a winning combination.
Another dish which was executed excellently and perfectly presented was the roast chicken. A few choice succulent pieces sit atop some dollops of spiced labneh and the result is divine. There were a couple of desserts to try and they were all of a high standard of course but my standout was actually the honey ice cream which was complemented by nuts and citrus. The staff were very professional and paid particular attention to biosecurity which impressed us. The atmosphere was of a tranquil oasis with floor-to-ceiling windows emitting light at lunchtime with quite spectacular views. The food was outstanding and while still embracing Qatar’s cultural past, it looked forward too.
PHOTOGRAPHER: VICTOR BELLOT