With so many menus leaning into reinvention, Sirine Boudjadi heads to Benjarong to see if traditional Thai cooking still holds its own.
On the hunt for your next Thai favourite in Doha? Benjarong could quietly work its way to the top of your list. Tucked inside Dusit Doha Hotel, it makes a strong impression, especially as it’s my first visit here. When I arrive, the terrace is already full of people soaking up the sun and the day’s warmth. I opt to stay indoors, where the mood feels calmer and more intimate.
The dining room leans into deep warm tones, dark wood and bronze accents. Large murals of figures in traditional Thai dress line the walls, while traditional instruments appear throughout the space as sculptural details. Tables are set with black tops, gold placemats and coral-toned napkins. The name Benjarong itself references the five-colour porcelain once reserved for Thai royalty, and the restaurant nods to that heritage without making a show of it.
WHERE TO START
The concept of Benjarong is simple, and sometimes that’s exactly what we expect. A fully Thai line-up. No fusion, no modern twists, no playful reinterpretations. Just signature recipes and proper, recognisable flavours. And it changes the way we approach the menu. We’re not looking for surprises; we’re looking for the version of the dish we already love. The papaya salad we always crave, the curry we know we’ll want, the pad Thai we measure every other one against. The kitchen is led by Chef Somruethai Suksamai, known as Chef Ninja.
So I’m more than happy to leave it in the team’s hands today. They clearly know what they’re doing and it saves me from overthinking every choice. The only question they ask? Allergies. Other than that, I’m going with the flow. First up: the Yum Som O Nakornchaisri Hoi Shell, a refreshing pomelo salad with scallops. It’s one of those combinations that sounds simple but only works if it’s balanced properly, and here, it is. Sweet, sharp and juicy, the pomelo pops against the scallops. Then come cashew nuts and fried shallots for crunch, plus desiccated coconut to round everything out.
Staying in that fresh, vibrant lane, the Khao Niew Somtum Gaiyang Phuket follows with more punch. The papaya salad is sharp and crunchy, with heat that builds slowly. Smoky grilled chicken skewers sit alongside, marinated in turmeric and herbs, slightly charred at the edges. Sticky rice on the side softens the spice and ties the plate together. On a warmer note, the Tom Kha Gai leans more indulgent but stays balanced. Coconut-forward, lifted by galangal and kaffir lime, so it feels fragrant. The chicken is tender and the broth is creamy, with just enough acidity to keep it fresh.
TURNING UP THE HEAT
From there, the menu moves into deeper, richer flavours, starting with the Gaeng Daeng Nua Gub Fak Thong Thed. The red curry arrives glossy and aromatic, coating the U.S. prime beef rather than drowning it. The meat is tender, kaffir lime keeps the sauce lifted, and the butternut squash brings a gentle sweetness that softens the edges. It’s warm, generous and rounded. The Mussaman Ka Gae is my favourite. A lamb shank, slow-cooked for 48 hours until it almost falls apart, resting in a thick massaman curry with potatoes and cashews. It’s rich, yes, but not heavy. After that, bringing things back to something familiar feels right. The Phad Thai Benjarong lands as a reset of sorts, a classic done properly. Rice noodles tossed with shrimp, egg and tofu, tamarind running through the dish with that signature sweet-sour backbone. Bean sprouts and chives add crunch and freshness, keeping every bite lively. It’s generous, balanced and reassuring in the best way.
To finish, even if, at this point, being full is an understatement, there’s really no skipping mango sticky rice in a Thai restaurant. It’s one of those nonnegotiables. Here, the Khao Niew Moon Mamuang Gub Mousse Kati stays true to the classic while keeping things a little lighter. The sticky rice is soft and gently sweet with that subtle salty edge that makes the dessert so addictive in the first place. The mango is perfectly ripe: juicy, fragrant, bright enough to cut through everything that came before. This version also stands out thanks to the coconut mousse. It’s familiar, comforting and balanced, exactly what you want at the end of a long Thai meal.
Overall, I had a genuinely strong experience. And when I look at the size of the menu, I realise this wasn’t even scratching the surface. There’s plenty of reason to come back and order completely differently next time. What I also appreciate is the thought put into the options. Seven vegetarian dishes, 17 main courses, plus 11 gluten-free choices. It shows Benjarong’s thinking beyond just one type of diner. Thai food, when it’s done right, is naturally generous and adaptable. And here, it feels like everyone at the table can find something to enjoy without compromise.
For more information or to make a reservation,
please call Benjarong at Dusit Doha Hotel on 4004 4052.
@benjarongdoha
@dusitdohahotel