A dining experience where organic ingredients and zero waste are the driving force behind stunning creations is what Ailsa Whyatt encounters at MURU.
MURU, or seed of life in the Spanish macrolanguage of Quechua, celebrates the elements of water, earth, fire and air, with ‘elemental zones’ across this restaurant located at Waldorf Astoria Doha West Bay. As my guest and I arrive, we are struck by the rug adorning the floor and wall in a floral tree pattern in shades of blue, green, yellow and red, giving us just a hint of the care and thought that has been woven into every detail of the restaurant.
Joaquin (our server and ingredients expert extraordinaire) and Sebastian (Beverage Manager for the hotel and one of the creative geniuses behind the drinks) ensure that our every need is catered for tonight, as they dazzle us with the innovation we see throughout this immersive dining experience.
Sebastian explains that in the kitchen and bar, any and all organic leftovers are used to make new creations, whether it be dehydrating remaining pulp from some freshly pressed juice to create fruit leather, thinly sliced leftover vegetable cuts baked into crisp garnishes, or even freezing an avocado stone into a block of the clearest ice to garnish a delicious drink.
We start with some water-themed mocktails: a gloriously blue Perfect Wave, which mimics the colours and movement of the sea, adorned with a coral tuille. A gentle jasmine aftertaste follows crisp clarified apple juice like the ebb of a tide, and flavouring from combu algae seaweed gives a hint of the sea. We also try a Tansan Mizu, a light and fresh creation using purple and green shiso, the perfect balance to our arriving food.
Joaquin brings out the Classic Ceviche, made with the freshest red snapper, which is tender and delicate and complemented by leche de tigre, mango, pomegranate jewels and onion. The kick of the flower (jalapeño) and Holland chillis running through the coriander oil and lime juice bring the dish together. A beautiful tapioca cracker with crushed nori powder adds a lovely ‘sea breeze’ to the dish – the effect of all the parts together is simply delicious.
Too often, maki rolls are heavy on rice and severely lacking individual flavour – not at MURU. In the Flaming Salmon Maki Rolls, we find chunky morsels of glorious Alaskan wild salmon, complemented by asparagus, avocado and sundried tomatoes, and the gentle warmth of teriyaki sauce from within, dusted with breadcrumbs for texture. Ponzu jelly, wasabi and coriander emulsion and ginger gel droplets sit next to the maki, providing us with an appetiser that is both colourfully elegant and hearty.
We also try the indulgently creamy and ever-so-fresh Crémeux Burrata Salad. I am reminded of artisan farmers’ markets, as flavour-packed heirloom and cherry tomatoes contrast with the verdancy of the basil, sitting on top of the sumptuous burrata, with pistachio pieces adding crunch and texture.
Next is fire, where the melt-in-the-mouth pastry of the Criolla Empanadas envelops Wagyu steak and beef brisket mixed with cumin, paprika and green olives, served with a hearty criolla sauce. We also sample the Pulpo Anticuchero, where tender pieces of octopus have been marinated in anticucho marination, which includes spicy aji panca (Peruvian chilli paste). It comes served with huancaina (a decadent, cheesy Peruvian sauce), potato causa (a layered potato dish) and rich, purple olive droplets.
We top this off with some earth and fire mocktails. The focus for the earth element is locally sourced ingredients combined with unexpected and inventive flavours – El Carmen de Bolivar being both delicious and intriguing, with its avocado water, lime and garam masala giving way to smoky undertones of salt and lapsang tea. Fire showcases toasted, smoked and grilled flavours with charcoal and caramelised undertones. My particular favourite, the Carbon, contains tamarind steeped in ginger, with smoky lapsang souchong and a lightly nutty flavour, garnished with a stunning shard of meringue.
Our main course for fire is lamb chops with a side of grilled corn. The lamb is tenderised in fresh pineapple juice, seasoned with aji panca, cumin, paprika, oregano and raisin oil, with a dash of salt and pepper seasoning. The chops are served with parsley panko on top and a heavenly buttery spinach cream, with peas and red bell pepper on the side. Not to be overlooked is the corn, which is flame-grilled on the cob, and the kernels are then combined with chilli powder, bell peppers, onion, spicy butter and grilled lime, which lifts the sweetness to create a satisfyingly citrusy contrast.
To round things off, Joaquin proudly brings forth our air dessert. This is not just dessert, it is an at-the-table dining experience. The MURU Pineapple is the perfect and rather spectacular end to any meal. A whole pineapple has been divided into three sections, each layer hiding its own creation. Diced pineapple with vanilla syrup and lime zest comprise the top Pineapple Salsa layer, the middle layer is a soft and creamy Pineapple Ice Cream, and a classic vanilla Crème Brulé sits at the bottom. Joaquin adds brown sugar to the final layer and blow torches it in front of us as we watch the caramel crunch appear. The effect is wonderful, and the combination of flavours (Joaquin is keen to ensure we have a mouthful of each of the three layers all at once to fully experience the dish as intended) is stunning.
Dessert is perfectly complimented by the Zephir, an air mocktail where the husk, flower and peel of bananas have been vacuum sealed for 24 hours with sugar to release all the sweetness of the fruit. This is combined with fig leaves, juniper berries and peppercorn and spritzed with roasted sesame oil to give a heady and moreish nose.
My guest and I have already scheduled a post-work dessert and drinks catchup just to, ahem, check nothing has changed with these since we were last there.
We are privileged to have many restaurants to sample in Qatar, but if you want an immersive experience where you can be sure that every part of the delicious organic ingredients is used and in ways you could not possibly have imagined, you cannot do better than realigning and re-centring yourself to nature’s elements, and joining MURU for an unforgettable culinary journey.
For more information or to make a reservation,
please call MURU at Waldorf Astoria Doha West Bay
on 40089229 or WhatsApp 5102 9105.
@muru.doha
@waldorfdoha