With so many new perfumes this season, Bushra Hakim breaks down the fragrance families to help you find the one that suits you.
Scent is one of the most instinctive forms of expression we have. It stirs memory, emotion and mood, and unlike fashion or make-up, it adapts to the wearer and becomes uniquely theirs. However, fragrance can be complex, but understanding its olfactory families—the broad categories perfumers use to describe scent—is the key to finding what truly suits your taste.
This year’s launches explore gender-neutral woods, modern florals, warm ambers and the growing appeal of synthetics. Here’s a look at some key olfactory families and where these new scents belong.
WOODY
Woody perfumes are timeless, often smooth, warm and grounding. Built around cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver or even oud, they anchor a fragrance with structure and calm, much like a base note in music. They are neither overtly masculine nor feminine but sit beautifully in the middle, making them a favourite for modern perfumery. These fragrances develop gradually on the skin, evolving from bright top notes into a lasting, comforting dry-down that can feel like a soft embrace. Woody scents remain popular for year-round wear, especially in unisex compositions.
Carolina Herrera’s Cedar Chic is a musky, cedar-based composition where bright bergamot and orange blossom soften its edges. Fétiche Le Santal from Christian Louboutin puts sandalwood at the centre, adding fig for a velvety texture that feels elegant on the skin. Guerlain’s Vétiver Fauve, part of the house’s L’Art & La Matière collection, introduces fig and pineapple for a sunny twist on the earthy note, drying down with tonka bean and vetiver.
Oud also finds a natural home in this family. Carolina Herrera’s True Oud refines the classic note with spices for smooth depth, while LOEWE’s Bittersweet Oud adds resinous depth tempered with zesty freshness.
FRESH
Fresh fragrances are bright, uplifting and invigorating. Often featuring citrus, green, aquatic or aromatic notes, they feel clean and energising—perfect for daytime wear or warm weather. Fresh scents tend to open with immediate clarity and lightness, evolving subtly into gentle bases that maintain a crisp energy. They are a favourite for sporty or casual wear, but the latest launches show that freshness can be elevated with soft woods, musks or tropical accents for more nuanced interpretations.
Paco Rabanne’s Invictus brings marine-inspired freshness with zesty citrus and pink pepper, combining sporty energy with subtle depth. Byredo’s Alto Astral blends soft woods with coconut and diffused musks, giving the impression of airy freshness despite its woody undertones. Together, these launches demonstrate how fresh scents can feel light, wearable and versatile.
AMBER
Amber fragrances are radiant, enveloping and comforting. Typically built around resins, amber and tonka bean, these compositions are warm and long-lasting, creating a sense of depth and richness. Often associated with cooler months or evening wear, amber scents tend to leave a lingering, sensual trail. Their complexity allows perfumers to explore contrasts, with bright accents against creamy or resinous bases, resulting in compositions that are both rich and wearable.
Les Eaux Primordiales’ Ambre Supermassive glows with rich resin and spices, a classic example of the family’s warmth and intensity. Diptyque’s Lazulio blends rhubarb, creamy benzoin, vetiver and a hint of rose, creating a luminous amber-woody fragrance inspired by the colours and textures of lapis lazuli and the peacock feather. Roja Parfums’ Elysium Noir explores a darker, more intense amber—smoky and resinous with complex layers that unfold slowly on the skin.
GOURMAND
Gourmand fragrances evoke the comforting sweetness of edible notes, including vanilla, sugar, tonka or caramel. The trick is balance; a successful scent from this family smells indulgent but never cloying. Modern gourmand launches tend to combine warmth with airy elements or a subtle floral note, ensuring they feel sophisticated and contemporary rather than dessert-like. These perfumes can be both comforting and statement-making, often leaving a memorable impression throughout the day.
LOEWE’s Roasted Vanilla sits comfortably in this space. Its creaminess gives it an edge, but the brand’s clean, botanical aesthetic keeps it airy and wearable, enhanced by oakwood and pink pepper. Les Eaux Primordiales’ Vanille Supermassive layers warm vanilla with smoky depth, highlighting the note’s richness. Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Baccarat Rouge 540 Édition Millésime (limited edition) combines saffron, amberwood and jasmine for a luminous, almost weightless gourmand that lingers on the skin like silk. Prada Paradoxe: Radical Essence, the latest from the successful range, uses amber, white musk and neroli to create a warm, slightly sweet composition that feels fresh yet comforting.
FLORAL
The floral family is the beating heart of perfumery. It’s the oldest, most recognisable and adaptable option, ranging from airy, delicate compositions to rich, opulent blooms. Florals can feel optimistic, nostalgic, romantic or playful, and the latest releases demonstrate their adaptability and contemporary appeal. These perfumes can be worn on any occasion, but their versatility comes from how they balance sweetness, freshness and powdery textures to suit a modern lifestyle.
Acqua di Parma’s Gelsomino a Freddo demonstrates this beautifully. It highlights jasmine extracted through a rare cold enfleurage process, preserving its green, dewy freshness. Paired with lemon, pink pepper and patchouli, it evokes the impression of a freshly picked garden bloom. Guerlain’s Absolus Allegoria Florabloom celebrates nature’s excess with tuberose, rose and ylang-ylang—an ode to a floral super bloom under the desert sun.
Miu Miu’s Miutine is playful and sweet, blending gardenia, brown sugar and patchouli woven into a soft floral-gourmand accord. Valentino’s Amour Sans Détour strikes a more restrained, powdery note within the floral family, combining violet, rose, jasmine and bergamot for an elegant, sensual experience.