Jonathan Cohen’s Spring 2023 collection is an ode to flowers with a strong feminine influence.
Isn’t it great to find something you thought you had lost? Jonathan Cohen found a box filled with books he had collected over the years, many of which he assumed he didn’t have anymore. As he sat to sift through them, he realised that there were various books of women artists that he loved – this discovery became the inspiration for this collection.
The books were by Frida Kahlo, Lee Krasner and Judit Reigl, women who somehow were overshadowed by their male partners for a period or had subverted ideas around gender and were driving forces within their respective artistic movements. Jonathan envisioned them in their studios or homes, seeking refuge in their work while gaining strength and freedom. This driving force created an impact on the process of creation of this collection.
The prints are centred on Jonathan’s favourite flowers: Matilija poppies, snapdragons, hydrangeas and ranunculus. Additionally, the looks are painted in polka dots and rainbow stripes with a psychedelic twist giving the impression that they are melting. The paintings were then transferred into jacquard knits and embroideries, enhancing the craft and the story of these empowered artistic women.
The work with leather is a partnership with Evolved by Nature (a biotech company) and offers a contrast to the colour-rich prints, bringing toughness and fearlessness to the capsule. Much like the women Jonathan drew inspiration from, the Spring 2023 collection is layered and nuanced, offering his unique perspective on them.