Kay Woodward indulged her appetite for high-class, authentic Italian cuisine with a trip to the gorgeous Veritas.
Wow. That’s always my first word when I walk into the lobby of Al Messila, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Doha. But tonight, I don’t have time to gaze at the stratospheric ceilings and funky lighting, because we’ve got a table at Veritas – the hotel’s signature Italian restaurant run by Michelin-starred Executive Chef Pino Lavarra. My first word when I walk into Veritas? Aah.
It’s just so lovely, you see. The wood-panelled walls add warmth. Velvet chairs covered in shades of peacock and cream add glamour. An outstanding pianist fills the restaurant with soothing music. There’s even low-level lighting, which I love. And the seating allows for safe distancing from your neighbours without losing the warm atmosphere.
The front-of-house staff are super friendly. Issam, our waiter, is charming, informative and funny, helpfully pointing out that there are photos on Instagram of the dishes and answering our many questions. He brings peach fizz welcome mocktails, bursting with ginger zinginess, to kickstart our palates. And then there’s delicious warm sourdough that we absolutely wouldn’t have demolished if we’d known what was coming: the amazing amuse bouche.
It’s seriously the best washing line ever.
Twice-fried spaghetti balls – crispy, light, airy and delicately seasoned with Parmesan and pepper – are pegged out to dry. Below, there’s an array of finger food including Arancini filled with saffron rice and beef ragu – to call it a flavour explosion would be underselling it.
The menu features dishes from all over Italy, not just the Michelin-starred chef ’s hometown of Naples. The Burrata – smooth, creamy and served with truffle cream and a lively tomato salad – is from the north of the country while the Pappardelle con Funghi (made especially for us) – wide ribbons of pasta with mushrooms, cream and hints of basil and sage – is from the deep south. Both are delicious.
The Costolette Di Agnello arrives in a blaze of glory. Delicate lamb chops are presented in a glass bell jar, hidden within a swirl of charcoal-scented smoke. When the lid is lifted, it’s pure theatre. (It smells pretty good too.)
You’d be forgiven for thinking that a Michelin-starred chef might serve tiny stacks of food on enormous plates. Not a bit of it. The portions at Veritas are perfectly sized. The Parmigiana di Melanzane – baked eggplant with tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano and burrata sauce – alone is proof that diners are not going to go home hungry. (They’d also be wise to avoid lunch.)
When he visits our table to see if we’re enjoying the meal – we absolutely are – Executive Chef Pino Lavarra explains that at Veritas, he wants to showcase the beauty of Italian food. But that’s not all. He also wants to give food a twist. As he put it, Chef Pino wants to ‘shake the tradition’. He tells us that he knows many diners go to Italian restaurants because the food is comforting. But he can’t resist putting a new spin on old favourites, creating meals that are familiar, delicious and surprising. His Lasagna Alla Bolognese is a perfect example. Instead of the meal diners might expect, Chef Pino’s lasagna is layers of fresh pasta, thyme cream and Bolognese sauce, fashioned into a crispy, rose-shaped masterpiece. ‘It’s fantastic Italian food, lightly twisted,’ says the chef.
Finally, there are the spectacular desserts. The Vanilla Panna Cotta with Wild Berries Sauce has a tantalising wobble and tastes utterly splendid. The Millefoglie is crispy puff pastry sandwiched together with just-ahint-of-lemon custard. Perfect.
Veritas might have the aah factor. But it has plenty of wow too.
For more information or to make a reservation, please call Veritas at Al Messila, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Doha, on 4445 0000.